Document Review & Planning for Textile Quality Inspection

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Document Review & Planning for Textile Quality Inspection

BREAKDOWN OF EACH SPECIFICATION DOCUMENT

1. APPROVED LAB DIP/SWATCH CARDS

Purpose: Establishes the color standard for all materials.

What to Review & Verify:

Correct Dye Recipe: Ensure factory received and used the exact approved dye formula
Color Standards Under Correct Lighting:
- D65 (Daylight 6500K): Primary standard for color evaluation
- TL84 (Store Lighting): How color appears in retail environments
- UV Light: Check for fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs)
- Incandescent (A Light): Home lighting conditions
Metamerism Check: Does the color shift differently under different lights? This must be approved.
Physical Swatch Attachment: Actual fabric swatch must be attached, not just Pantone numbers
Approval Sign-off: Must have dated signatures from buyer’s technical/design team

Inspection Impact: Without this, color rejections become subjective arguments. With it, you can use a light box to objectively say “this doesn’t match the approved swatch.”

2. APPROVED STRIKE-OFF/PRINT STRIKE-OFF

Purpose: Defines print, embroidery, or appliqué standards.

Critical Elements to Confirm:

Color Separation & Registration: For prints – are colors aligned correctly?
Print Technique Verification: Screen print vs. digital vs. sublimation – each has different quality parameters
Embroidery Details:
- Stitch density (SPI – stitches per inch)
- Thread type and weight
- Underlay stitching requirements
- Backing material specification
Print Hand Feel: Some prints change fabric hand (crackling effect, rubbery feel) – this must be intentionally approved
Size & Placement: Exact measurement from specific points (e.g., “print center 5cm below neckline”)
Repeat Pattern Alignment: For all-over prints, verify pattern matches at seams

Inspection Impact: This document prevents “close enough” acceptance of prints. It provides millimeter-level precision requirements.

3. APPROVED TRIM CARDS

Purpose: Standardizes all non-fabric components.

Component-by-Component Verification:

A. Zippers:

Brand and style
Tape color and composition
Slider type (auto-lock, non-lock, reversible)
Teeth material (metal, plastic, coil)
Length tolerance (±0.5cm typically)
Puller design and attachment

B. Buttons/Snaps/Fasteners:

Material (plastic, metal, coconut, corozo)
Exact color matching to approved sample
Size in ligne (standard button measurement)
Shank vs. flat button specification
Snap brand and strength (pressure required)
Metal content compliance (nickel-free for allergies)

C. Threads:

Fiber content (polyester core thread most common)
Weight/thickness (Tex number)
Color matching to fabric or contrast specification
Special thread requirements (high-tenacity, fire-retardant)

D. Labels:

Woven vs. printed labels
Content accuracy (100% cotton, etc.)
Care symbol correctness per region (US, EU, Japan differ)
Size label font and color
Brand label placement tolerance

E. Elastics:

Width and recovery specifications
Rubber vs. spandex content
Color fastness requirements

Inspection Impact: Trims are where factories often substitute to cut costs. Approved cards eliminate “it looks similar” substitutions.

4. TECH PACK WITH DETAILED MEASUREMENTS (POM SHEET)

Purpose: The engineering blueprint of the garment.

Critical Analysis Areas:

A. Measurement Points of Measure (POM):

Tolerance Levels: Each measurement should have acceptable variance (±0.5cm, ±1cm, etc.)
Grade Rules: How measurements change across sizes (size 6 to 8 increases by 2cm in bust)
Key Dimensions: Identify which measurements are structural vs. stylistic
- Structural: Bust/chest, waist, hip, across shoulder
- Stylistic: Hem width, cuff opening, pocket placement

B. Construction Details:

Stitch types for each seam (401 chainstitch, 301 lockstitch, 504 overedge)
Seam allowances (缝份) for each seam
Interlining/fusing specifications
Hem depths and finishing methods

C. Pattern & Grain Alignment:

Pattern matching at side seams, sleeves, pockets
Straight grain indicators on technical flats
Bias cutting requirements

Inspection Impact: This document allows the inspector to measure objectively. Without it, a “small fit” complaint is subjective; with it, you can prove the garment is 2cm smaller than specified.

5. APPROVED FABRIC QUALITY STANDARD

Purpose: Defines the raw material quality parameters.

Must-Include Specifications:

A. Fabric Construction:

Yarn count (Ne 40/1, etc.)
Thread density (ends/inch x picks/inch)
Weave/knit structure (single jersey, twill, satin)

B. Physical Properties:

GSM (Grams per Square Meter): Weight tolerance (±5% typically)
Shrinkage Allowance: Maximum after 3 home washes (±3% typically)
Tear/Tensile Strength: Minimum requirements
Color Fastness Ratings: To washing, rubbing, light, perspiration
- Rating scale: 1 (poor) to 5 (excellent), with minimums specified

C. Defect Allowance:

Acceptable defect types and frequency per linear yard
Defect placement restrictions (no critical defects in visible areas)

D. Test Reports Requirement:

Which third-party lab tests are required (SGS, Bureau Veritas, etc.)
Testing standards (AATCC, ISO, ASTM)
When tests must be conducted (before cutting, during production)

Inspection Impact: This is your defense against inferior fabric substitution. You can reject based on failed GSM or shrinkage tests, not just “it feels thin.”

6. PACKAGING SPECIFICATIONS

Purpose: Ensures product arrives in sellable condition.

Layer-by-Layer Verification:

A. Primary Packaging (direct contact):

Polybag thickness (0.025mm, 0.03mm, etc.)
Polybag printing requirements (size stickers, logos, warning labels)
Tissue paper quality and folding method
Hanger type (specific brand/model, color)

B. Secondary Packaging (cartoning):

Carton quality (3-ply, 5-ply, moisture resistance)
Packing method:
- Flat pack vs. hanging pack
- Size ratio assortment (S:M:L = 1:2:1)
- Color assortment per carton
Folding template for garments

C. Shipping Marks:

Exact information required on carton
Barcode specification (type, placement, data)
Palletization requirements (cartons per pallet, stretch wrap)

Inspection Impact: Poor packaging causes warehouse damage and increases retail labor. This document ensures the product is protected and retail-ready.

7. PURCHASE ORDER WITH QUANTITY BREAKDOWN

Purpose: The commercial contract that ties everything together.

Critical Verification Points:

A. Quantity & Delivery:

Total quantity by style/color/size
Delivery schedule (multiple shipments?)
Percentage completion requirement for inspection (typically 80-100%)

B. Commercial Terms Linked to Quality:

Payment terms tied to inspection approval
Penalty clauses for quality failures
Retention policies for failed goods

C. Inspection Protocol Specifications:

AQL levels specified in PO (not assumed)
Who pays for inspection
Corrective action requirements for failures

Inspection Impact: The PO gives you the authority to inspect and reject. It’s the commercial backbone that makes quality requirements enforceable.

THE PLANNING PROCESS: TURNING DOCUMENTS INTO ACTION

Step 1: Document Gap Analysis

Compare all documents for consistency
Flag any contradictions (e.g., tech pack says 100% cotton but fabric standard mentions polyester blend)
Resolve discrepancies with your design/technical team before inspection

Step 2: Create Inspection Checklist

Transform each specification into checkable items:

Lab Dip → Color check under 4 light sources
Tech Pack → 15 specific measurements with tolerances
Trim Cards → Physical comparison of 8 trim items

Step 3: Define AQL Sampling Plan

Based on PO quantity:

Determine sample size from AQL tables
Decide defect classification:
- Critical: Safety, legal, functional failure (AQL 0.0)
- Major: Affects saleability or use (AQL 2.5)
- Minor: Minor appearance issues (AQL 4.0)

Address

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